Author: Benedict Flynn

A well-maintained lawn makes your yard more attractive and provides a space for kids to play safely. Control weeds, fertilize properly, overseed, and aerate regularly to make your lawn healthy and lush.

Start with a soil test to determine your yard’s type of soil, which impacts watering and aeration requirements. Use manual or power core aerators to poke holes into the turf, loosening compacted soil and allowing air, water and nutrients to reach grass roots.

Weeds are a natural part of a healthy lawn, but they can detract from its appearance. When they appear, pull them before they go to seed. Larger weeds can be treated with a low-toxicity herbicide that is safe for your grass. This should be done only on individual weeds, not as a blanket spray. It’s best to apply a herbicide in the later spring when weeds are growing at their worst – usually the first week of May.

Annual weeds can be controlled with preemergence or postemergent herbicides. Preemergence herbicides are applied as the weeds begin to germinate, and they kill them before they become established in the soil. They are effective against most annual grass weeds, such as crabgrass and annual bluegrass, as well as certain broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, dollarweed and spurge. Common preemergence herbicides include benefin, clopyrethrin, cyprodinil, dithiopyr and oryzalin.

Postemergent herbicides are applied after a weed has emerged, and they kill it as it grows. These herbicides are effective against most annual grass weeds, as well as many perennial weeds such as creeping buttercups, knotweed and purple loosestrife. They are also used against some broadleaf weeds, such as dandelion and chickweed. Common postemergent herbicides include postemergent triclopyr, glyphosate and 2,4-D.

Some weed control products are combined with fertilizers. These are called “weed and feed” products, and they cut down on lawn care time by giving you both in one bottle. However, for these products to work, they must be applied when weeds are actively growing, and they must be used according to the label’s directions.

Perennial weeds, such as bindweed and knotweed, live for many years and reproduce by seeds or vegetatively (by creeping stems, rhizomes or tubers). They are hard to get rid of once they’ve become established. To prevent them, avoid over-fertilizing your lawn and irrigating it in mid-summer.

Pest Control

Lawn care is about maintaining the health of turf and soil. This includes fertilization, aeration, seeding/overseeding, soil health and pest control. Proper lawn maintenance also prevents weeds, and helps trees, shrubs, flowers and other types of decorative plants thrive.

A lush, green lawn can make your home more attractive and provide a great place to relax. But if pests invade, they can destroy the beauty of your yard and create an environment that’s unhealthy for people, pets and plants.

Many southern lawns, gardens and ornamental trees and shrubs are plagued by chinch bugs, grubs, aphids, mites and other insects that can cause serious damage. Fortunately, these pests can be controlled with targeted treatments.

Fungus is another common problem affecting healthy grass. Symptoms include brown patches, which usually occur in wet areas of the yard. Fungicide can help manage this disease.

Mosquitoes and ticks can also be a big issue in Florida yards. A combination of regular mowing, Yard Armour mosquito and tick yard treatments, and making your yard as unappetizing as possible for these pests (putting food enjoyed outdoors away quickly, picking up crumbs and sealing trash) can greatly reduce their numbers.

Keeping your lawn healthy and preventing pest invasions can help you avoid costly lawn renovations. A professional lawn specialist can help you determine the best treatment plan for your property. They will inspect the health of your turf and soil, and recommend treatment options as needed. They may suggest aeration, overseeding or other treatments. They will also recommend mowing and watering schedules that are specific to your yard. This helps prevent overgrowth, which can lead to stress that attracts pests, and ensures the proper mowing height for your grass type.

Fertilization

Grass requires a range of nutrients to grow and thrive, and soil that’s rich in these minerals will produce a healthy lawn. Lawn fertilizers replace and replenish these minerals, making them a critical part of the lawn care process.

Depending on your region and the grass type, different lawn fertilizers are appropriate. Granular fertilizers are a good choice, as they release their nutrients over time rather than all at once. They’re also easy to spread, though you’ll need to calibrate your lawn spreader and follow the product directions to ensure you apply the right amount.

Organic fertilizers, derived from natural sources such as compost or manure, are another option for your lawn. They’re less likely to burn your grass, but may take longer to take effect than synthetic fertilizers.

When shopping for lawn fertilizer, look for a set of numbers on the bag that indicates the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Ideally, you want to buy a product with “zero” in the middle, as these are phosphate-free. Phosphorus is a major cause of water pollution, and high levels of this nutrient can lead to harmful algae blooms in lakes and rivers.

When applying a granular lawn fertilizer, be sure to sweep away any excess that lands on sidewalks, driveways or other impervious surfaces. If you don’t, it can wash off and wash into storm drains or waterways, causing environmental harm. Before applying any lawn fertilizer, check the weather forecast and make sure the soil is dry. Wet soils prevent granules from being absorbed by the grass and can cause runoff and erosion. In addition, mowing wet grass can leave behind unsightly clumps of mulch.

Aeration

Aeration is the mechanical removal of small plugs of soil in a lawn. It relieves soil compaction and allows air, water and nutrients to penetrate grass roots more easily. It also prevents soil erosion. It’s important to note that dethatching (raking of the thick layer of organic matter buried between the soil and green grass) and aeration are separate services, but are often performed together in lawn care because they complement each other to improve the health of turf.

Compacted soils are dense and impede the flow of air and water, which starve grass roots. Heavy foot traffic and the use of lawn equipment contribute to soil compaction. Over time, excess lawn thatch obstructs the passage of oxygen and moisture to the lower soil levels, as well. Aeration breaks up the dense soil layers and relieves soil compaction, and helps reduce thatch buildup and encourages root growth.

Lawn aeration is typically done by a lawn service using either a core or spike aerator. The former uses hollow metal tubes or tines to remove plugs of soil, while the latter punches holes in the ground with spikes. Core aerators are preferred because they relieve soil compaction more effectively than spike-type devices.

To prepare for aeration, give the lawn a thorough trimming with a mower. This will make it easier on you and the aerator, which works best when the lawn is slightly moist. It is ideal to aerate right before overseeding, as this will help seeds settle and promote root growth.

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Watering

Watering is essential to a healthy lawn. When a lawn is properly watered, the grass roots are kept deep and a lawn becomes drought-resistant. However, if a lawn is overwatered, the roots are pulled up to the surface and the grass can become dry and brittle.

It’s important to know how much your lawn needs to be watered, as well as the best time of day to water it. The best time of the day is early in the morning, when temperatures are still cool. Watering in the morning allows the water to soak into the soil before it evaporates under the hot sun during the afternoon.

The amount of water needed for your lawn varies by region, climate and soil type. In general, you should aim to water until the top 6-8 inches of soil are moistened. This can be done in a single watering session or divided into two sessions per week, depending on the season.

Newly seeded or sodded lawns require more frequent watering than established lawns, as the roots have yet to anchor into the soil. Shady areas and sunny/exposed lawns also require different amounts of water, as shady soil leaches moisture quickly while clay soil tends to retain it.

When the weather is dry and water restrictions are in effect, it’s important to adjust irrigation schedules accordingly. If possible, switch to gray water (reused household water), as this is more efficient than using freshwater. It is also safe to use for your lawn, as long as it’s free from soaps, detergents and other chemicals that can damage plants.